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| Tuscan Wines: A Lifelong Wine Journey Begins |
By Denise Easton
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 Denise Easton is ULiveandLearn's president, CEO and co-founder. In her pre-dotcom life, she built a design and construction firm after having spent more than 15 years in financial services marketing and product development. At Core States Financial, she initiated and managed all joint new product ventures. At Marine Midland Bank, she managed marketing and sales programs for a network of 650 partner organizations. Denise is always learning.
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Tuscan wines represent some of the most intriguing and popular wines produced in Italy. The first lesson is that an appreciation of wine matures as you learn more about the history and region, the individual wines and the producers.
Raise your glass and toast to the journey...Salute!
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| Italy's Tuscany Region |
In the eyes of the world no other Italian wine enjoys greater name recognition than Chianti. This much-beloved red from Tuscany in north-central Italy has effectively become Italy's calling card abroad.
The Tuscany region is synonymous with Italy's rich artistic and cultural heritage. Its glories include the cities of Florence, Siena and Pisa. Its landscape of undulating hills, ancient stone farmhouses, hilltop villages and winding country roads, vineyards, olive groves and cypress trees, offers a vista that is at once unique and yet unmistakably Italian.
Midway between Milan and Rome, Tuscany is flanked to the west by the Tyrrhenian Sea and to the east by the Apennine range. During the Middle Ages the area consisted of a collection of rival city-states that finally united in the 1500s under the Medici dukes of Florence, after a formidable power struggle between the ruling families of the era. With the ascendancy of the Medici clan, Florence became a veritable hothouse of artistic, scientific and scholarly activity. Thus it was Florence that gave the world the Renaissance, a period of creative genius that spanned 300 years, propelling Western civilization forward and transforming it forever.
The Wines of Tuscany--the Sangiovese Variety
When it comes to the wines of Tuscany, the Renaissance lives on. The past few decades have witnessed many profound and astonishing developments among Tuscan winemakers, who have placed themselves firmly on the cutting edge of winemaking innovation. Tuscany is primarily red wine terrain and its principal grape variety is Sangiovese.
A native of Chianti, the noble Sangiovese is the source of almost every classified red wine from central Italy. Typically, it yields garnet-colored, subtly flavored, intensely perfumed wines. Though often blended with varying amounts of other grape varieties, it certainly has the capacity to stand on its own.
A close relation, Sangiovese Grosso, is responsible for two other celebrated Tuscan wines, the stately Brunello di Montalcino and the splendidly fragrant Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Tuscany boasts four of Italy's nine top-rated DOCG classified zones, a feat unmatched by any other region of the country. In recent years progressive Tuscan vintners have made it their mission to demonstrate to the world at large the previously unexplored potential and quality of the Sangiovese grape.
Applying a highly disciplined approach, a new generation of winemakers - the Zingarelli family, for example, at their Rocca delle Macie estate in Chianti Classico country - has curtailed yields, introduced small new oak barrels, eliminated lesser grape varieties from their blends and instituted reduced aging periods.
As a result, the once humble Chianti has scaled new heights of excellence. Other notable wine estates in the Chianti Classico zone include Castello di Verrazzano, an ancient property that was the birthplace of Giovanni de Verrazzano, the 15th century navigator who charted much of America's eastern seaboard and has a bridge named after him in New York City.
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| A New Breed of Super Tuscans |
Nowhere is the Tuscan wine renaissance more apparent than in the development of an entirely new breed of Tuscan red wines. Often referred to as Super Tuscans, these renegade reds dare to flout strict DOC conventions and have gone on to achieve virtual cult status among wine connoisseurs.
An early pioneer in this area was the Fattoria dei Barbi estate in the Brunello di Montalcino district. Barbi's launch in 1970 of an adventurous new blend named Brusco dei Barbi numbered among the very first examples of these outstanding new Tuscan wines. Hailed by connoisseurs for its majestic, long-lived reds, Brunello di Montalcino constitutes one of the greatest red wine districts of all Italy.
Castello di Camigliano is one such producer, admired for its Brunello wines. The aptly named Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, another of Italy's most revered and sought-after red wines, also originates in Tuscany. Among its champions is the Fassati estate: founded in 1913, it is among the handful of Montepulciano properties that first led the way in establishing a world-class reputation for the wines of the area.
Still, nothing more readily evokes Chianti than the traditional straw-covered Chianti bottle, a familiar sight worldwide. Enterprising wineries like Straccali, however, have brought about a new vitality to this popularly priced sector. While taking pains to maintain its affordability, they have nevertheless made rapid strides forward in upgrading overall quality. It is significant that the emergence of a new wave of world-class Tuscan wines has fueled a surge of interest among California winemakers, some of whom have also started to experiment with the Sangiovese grape.
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| Rocca Delle Macie, Chianti's Rising Star |
Italo Zingarelli may well be one of Tuscany's more unlikely winemakers. A one-time light heavyweight boxer who went on to become a film producer of note, he bought the Rocca delle Macie (pronounced Roh-kah dell-eh Mah-chee-eh) estate in Tuscany's Chianti Classico country in 1973, with the box office receipts generated by a string of popular "spaghetti" westerns. Speaking of the move, Zingarelli is quick to point out: "It was certainly not intended to be a hobby...it was a vocation, a desire to return to the soil."
Zingarelli immediately set about restoring the property he now calls home. Then a tumbledown 14th-century farmstead near the village of Castellina, it was surrounded by acres of neglected vines. Vineyards were replanted from scratch. Further property, the nearby Sant'Alfonso estate, was acquired. A cellar was built and the latest winemaking equipment purchased. Zingarelli let nothing stand in the way in his quest to create a stellar Tuscan wine estate.
Quality is the priority at Rocca delle Maccie. Organic fertilization, careful pruning, the introduction of small oak barriques for aging and harvesting by hand, are just some of the practices instituted at the estate, which is staffed by a dedicated team of professionals. Rocca is an active member of the Chianti Classico growers' consortium, which takes a black rooster as its symbol. One of seven Chianti DOCG zones, Chianti Classico is generally deemed to produce the most consistently high-quality wines.
By 1978, Rocca delle Macie had become one of the best-selling Chianti Classicos in Italy and was judged by Zingarelli to be in an ideal position to start exporting its wines. Today Rocca delle Macie wines can be found in 41 countries.
A further milestone was achieved in 1984 with the Zingarellis' purchase of the highly regarded Fizzano estate, also in Castellina. That same year, Italo Zingarelli was joined at the helm by his son, Sergio, who is now largely responsible for managing the family's winemaking interests. Like his father, Sergio Zingarelli lives at Rocca delle Macie, with his wife Daniela, who plays an active role in the day-to-day operations of the estate, and their young children.
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| Fassati - Fazi-Battaglia's Tuscan Estate |
Established in 1913 by Marchese Giuseppe Fassati, a local landowner, the Fassati estate is located in the commune of Montepulciano near the historic city of Siena. From the outset connoisseurs and collectors alike have coveted its wines, notably the magnificent red Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is every bit as aristocratic as its name might suggest.
In 1969, an opportunity arose for Fazi-Battaglia to buy the estate. The acquisition proved fortuitous for Fassati as its new owner brought considerable marketing expertise and a timely injection of capital. In 1986, Fazi-Battaglia underscored its commitment to the estate with the purchase of two significant pieces of prime vineyard holdings, expanding the Fassati property by a further 85 acres. Construction of a new winery followed soon afterward. No stone has been left unturned in an effort to ensure that the new facility offers the optimum conditions for making the highest caliber of wine.
But the most significant development of late has been the presence of Italy's leading consultant winemaker, the visionary Franco Bernabei, who is now bringing his talents to bear at Fassati. Over the next few years his influence will have a growing impact, marked by the release of new breeds of wines from this Tuscan estate.
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| The Tuscany Wine of Fassati |
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG: The 17th century poet Francesco Redi called it "the King of all Wines." Even the 18th century French philosopher Voltaire singled it out for praise. Vino Nobile derives its character from a blend of grapes, in Fassati's case 50-70% Prugnolo Gentile (a clone of Sangiovese Grosso), 10-20% Canaiolo Nero and the balance made up with Mammolo grapes. Each makes a distinct contribution to the sum of effects: Prugnolo Gentile delivers body and vigor; Canaiolo Nero produces softness and finesse, while Mammolo grapes are responsible for the wine's admired violet-scented aroma. Aged two or more years in oak and a year in bottle, Vino Nobile is known for its staying power. It is more than a match for grilled and roast meats, rich, flavorful sauces and ripe, pungent cheeses. To do this wine justice, open at least two hours before pouring.
Selciaia Rosso di Montepulciano DOC: A lighter, more feminine version of the Vino Nobile, this estate-bottled red undergoes a briefer aging process. Dry and harmonious, it offers a youthful approachability and a compelling violet-scented bouquet. This wine will accompany a wide range of white and red meat entrees. Serve at room temperature and open just prior to pouring. |
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